All You Wanted to Know About Medical-grade Peels!

It is Peel Season! So I thought I would share information about all things Peel so you can look at considering this as a skin care treatment to incorporate into your skin care routine.

Peels are a wonderful additional to your routine along with facials. We suggest for the average person, 2-3 peels a year. High season for peels is the fall, winter and early to mid spring. This is mostly due to the sun, which we want to avoid as a peel can leave your skin sensitive.

At Derma Bright Clinic we carry 3 lines of Peels: AlumierMD, PromoItalia and Alex Peel. They are popular services and our trained skin care technicians can help you determine if a peel is right for you!

Let’s get into it!

What is a medical-grade peel?

A medical-grade peel, also known as a chemical peel, is a professional skin care treatment that uses a high concentration of acids to deeply exfoliate the skin. Unlike over-the-counter peels, medical-grade peels are typically administered by a licensed aesthetician in a medical or skin care clinic setting because of their strength and the potential need for specialized application and monitoring.

Medical-grade peels can contain active ingredients such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), or phenol, and they can address various skin concerns including fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, and uneven skin texture. By gently removing the top layers of damaged skin, medical-grade peels promote the growth of new, smoother, and more evenly pigmented skin.

Medical-grade peels are classified into superficial, medium, and deep, depending on their depth of penetration and intensity. The deeper the peel, the more dramatic the results, but also the longer the recovery time.

What does a peel correct?

A medical-grade peel can correct a variety of skin issues by exfoliating the outer layers and promoting new skin growth. Here are the main skin concerns that peels can address:

Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Peels help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, especially those caused by sun damage and aging. Medium and deep peels are particularly effective for deeper lines and creases.
Uneven Skin Tone and Hyperpigmentation: Peels can lighten areas of hyperpigmentation, such as sunspots, age spots, and melasma, resulting in a more even skin tone.
Acne and Acne Scars: Superficial peels containing salicylic acid are effective in treating acne by exfoliating and reducing oil production. Peels can also help reduce the appearance of shallow acne scars, promoting smoother skin.
Sun Damage: Peels address sun-induced damage such as discoloration, age spots, and rough skin texture by exfoliating damaged cells and encouraging healthy skin regeneration.
Rough Skin Texture: By removing the outer layer of dead skin, peels reveal a smoother surface and help soften rough, uneven areas of the skin.
Dull Skin: Peels can revive dull skin by sloughing off dead skin cells, revealing a brighter and more radiant complexion.
Enlarged Pores: Regular peels help to reduce the appearance of large pores by keeping them clean and free from buildup, making them appear smaller over time.
Keratosis Pilaris: Medical-grade peels can help improve the rough, bumpy texture caused by keratosis pilaris by exfoliating dead skin cells that clog hair follicles.
Scarring: Medium and deep peels can reduce the appearance of superficial scars, such as those caused by injuries or acne, by promoting collagen production and improving skin texture.
Age Spots and Liver Spots: Peels target pigmented areas caused by sun exposure and aging, gradually fading these spots and resulting in a more even skin tone.

What are some of the active ingredients, and what do they do to skin?

Medical-grade peels use a variety of active ingredients, each with specific benefits for the skin. Some common ingredients include:

Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its small molecular size, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the skin.
1. Benefits: Exfoliates the top layer of skin, helps with uneven skin tone, reduces fine lines, improves skin texture, and enhances skin radiance.
Salicylic Acid: A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, making it effective for oily or acne-prone skin.
1. Benefits: Penetrates pores to dissolve excess oil and dead skin cells, helping to treat and prevent acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness.
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA): A stronger acid that can be used in different concentrations, ranging from superficial to deep peels.
1. Benefits: Removes the top layers of skin to treat hyperpigmentation, age spots, fine lines, and acne scars. It helps reveal smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin.
Lactic Acid: Is derived from milk and is milder compared to other acids, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
1. Benefits: Gently exfoliates the skin, boosts hydration, and improves skin texture. It helps to even out skin tone and reduce signs of aging.
Phenol: Is used in deep chemical peels and is among the strongest ingredients available for peeling.
1. Benefits: Removes deep wrinkles and severe sun damage. It provides dramatic skin resurfacing results but requires a longer recovery time and can have more significant risks.
Mandelic Acid: An AHA derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is larger in molecular size, which makes it gentler on the skin.
1. Benefits: It helps exfoliate, improves skin texture, and targets hyperpigmentation while being suitable for sensitive skin types.
Jessner’s Solution: Is a combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol.
1. Benefits: This blend provides effective exfoliation, reducing acne, fine lines, and pigmentation while promoting an even skin tone.

Each of these active ingredients targets specific skin issues, making medical-grade peels versatile and customizable to individual needs. The strength and type of peel depend on skin type, concerns, and desired results.

What skin types can benefit?

Medical-grade peels can benefit a wide range of skin types, but the type of peel and ingredients used should be carefully chosen based on individual skin needs. Here’s how different skin types can benefit:

Normal Skin:
1. Benefits: Peels help maintain a healthy glow, reduce fine lines, and enhance overall skin tone and texture.
Oily and Acne-Prone Skin:
1. Best Ingredients: Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, Jessner’s solution.
2. Benefits: Peels can reduce excess sebum, unclog pores, treat acne, and minimize breakouts. Salicylic acid is especially effective for oily skin due to its oil-soluble nature.
Dry Skin:
1. Best Ingredients: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid.
2. Benefits: Peels can remove flaky, dry skin cells and improve hydration, resulting in smoother and softer skin. Lactic acid, which is hydrating, is particularly suitable for dry skin.
Combination Skin:
1. Best Ingredients: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid.
2. Benefits: Peels help balance the skin by treating both dry areas and oily zones. Combination skin can benefit from a mix of exfoliation and hydration provided by AHAs and BHAs.
Sensitive Skin:
1. Best Ingredients: Lactic acid, mandelic acid.
2. Benefits: Gentle peels can exfoliate without causing significant irritation. Mandelic acid, due to its larger molecular size, is well-suited for sensitive skin as it works more slowly and is less likely to cause redness or discomfort.
Aging or Mature Skin:
1. Best Ingredients: TCA, glycolic acid, lactic acid, phenol.
2. Benefits: Peels for aging skin help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. TCA and phenol are particularly effective for deeper wrinkles and skin rejuvenation.
Hyperpigmented Skin (Dark Spots or Uneven Tone):
1. Best Ingredients: Glycolic acid, TCA, mandelic acid.
2. Benefits: Peels can effectively target areas of hyperpigmentation, evening out skin tone and reducing the appearance of dark spots and melasma.

Considerations for Fitzpatrick Skin Types

For darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick types IV-VI), the use of certain acids, like TCA or phenol, requires caution to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Gentler acids like lactic or mandelic acid are often preferred for those with a higher risk of pigmentation issues.

Ultimately, a licensed skin care professional can determine the best type of medical-grade peel for a specific skin type to maximize benefits and minimize risks.

What are the benefits?

Medical-grade peels offer a variety of benefits, depending on the type of peel and the ingredients used. Here are the key benefits:

Improves Skin Texture: Peels remove the outer layers of dead skin, which helps smooth rough patches and gives skin a softer, more even texture.
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By stimulating collagen production and shedding old, damaged skin, medical-grade peels help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promoting a youthful appearance.
Even Skin Tone: Peels are effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, sunspots, and age spots. They help fade discoloration and even out skin tone for a more uniform complexion.
Minimizes Acne and Acne Scars: Ingredients like salicylic acid can help treat active acne by reducing oil production and unclogging pores. Additionally, peels can help minimize the appearance of acne scars by encouraging new skin growth and improving overall skin texture.
Reduces Hyperpigmentation and Melasma: Medical-grade peels target areas of pigmentation, lightening dark spots and helping to correct melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation.
Unclogs Pores and Reduces Pore Size: Peels exfoliate deeply, which helps to remove debris and excess oil from pores, reducing their size and visibility over time.
Improves Product Absorption: By removing the top layers of dead skin, peels enhance the skin’s ability to absorb skincare products more effectively, allowing for better penetration of active ingredients.
Boosts Collagen Production: Deeper peels stimulate collagen and elastin production, which improves skin firmness, elasticity, and overall resilience.
Treats Sun Damage: Peels can help repair damage caused by sun exposure, including fine lines, sunspots, and rough texture.
Brightens Dull Skin: Removing layers of dead and damaged skin cells reveals brighter, more radiant skin beneath, giving a more vibrant and youthful look.
Reduces Oil Production: Ingredients like salicylic acid can help regulate sebum production, making peels beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

The overall benefit of a medical-grade peel is the rejuvenation of the skin, leading to a smoother, clearer, and healthier complexion. The choice of peel depends on the individual’s skin concerns and desired results, with each type providing a different set of advantages.

How long does it take and what steps are involved

A medical-grade peel typically takes about 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the type and depth of the peel.

Here are the common steps involved in the process:

Consultation and Skin Preparation:
1. Time: Before the procedure.
2. Details: A consultation with a licensed skin care professional is necessary to assess your skin type, condition, and suitability for the peel. They may also recommend prepping the skin with specific products (like retinoids or AHAs) for a few weeks to optimize results and minimize side effects.
Cleansing:
1. Time: 5-10 minutes.
2. Details: On the day of the peel, the skin is thoroughly cleansed to remove makeup, oils, and impurities. This helps ensure the peel solution is applied evenly and penetrates effectively.
Prepping the Skin:
1. Time: 5 minutes.
2. Details: A pre-peel solution (often containing alcohol or acetone) may be applied to degrease the skin further and enhance the peel’s effectiveness. This step helps remove residual oils and allows for deeper penetration of the active ingredients.
Application of the Peel:
1. Time: 10-15 minutes.
2. Details: The chemical peel solution is then applied to the skin using a brush, gauze, or cotton applicator. The duration of the peel on the skin depends on the type and depth of the peel. During this stage, you may feel a tingling, stinging, or warm sensation, which is normal.
Monitoring and Neutralization:
1. Time: Varies (typically 5-10 minutes).
2. Details: The professional monitors the skin’s reaction. Superficial peels might be left on without neutralizing, while deeper peels are neutralized after a set time. Neutralizing agents, such as water or a specific neutralizing solution, stop the action of the acids.
Soothing and Moisturizing:
1. Time: 5-10 minutes.
2. Details: After neutralization, a soothing serum or cooling gel is applied to calm the skin. A thick moisturizer or hydrating product is often used to help the skin recover.
Application of Sunscreen:
1. Time: 1-2 minutes.
2. Details: To protect the freshly exfoliated skin, a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF is applied. Skin is more vulnerable to UV damage after a peel, so sun protection is crucial.
Aftercare Instructions:
1. Time: Provided at the end of the procedure.
2. Details: You will receive specific aftercare instructions, including avoiding sun exposure, refraining from exfoliation, using gentle skincare products, and staying hydrated. It’s common to experience some redness, peeling, or flaking over the next few days.

Total Time: Approximately 30-60 minutes.

The entire process may vary depending on the type of peel (superficial, medium, or deep), the individual’s skin condition, and the strength of the peel used. Recovery time also varies; superficial peels may have little to no downtime, whereas medium and deep peels can require days to weeks of recovery.

What results can I expect?

The results of a medical-grade peel depend on the type and depth of the peel, as well as the specific skin concerns being addressed. Here are the typical results you can expect:

Smoother Skin Texture: The peel removes the top layer of dead skin cells, resulting in smoother, softer skin. Rough patches and uneven texture are often improved, leaving skin feeling more refined.
Brighter, More Radiant Skin: Peels exfoliate dull skin, revealing a fresh layer of skin underneath, which gives the complexion a more vibrant and youthful glow.
Reduced Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Superficial and medium peels can reduce the appearance of fine lines, particularly around the eyes and mouth, by stimulating collagen production. Deeper peels may have a more dramatic effect on wrinkles and skin sagging.
Even Skin Tone: The peel helps fade dark spots, sunspots, and areas of hyperpigmentation. It also evens out skin tone, making it an effective treatment for conditions like melasma.
Fewer Acne and Reduced Breakouts: Peels that contain salicylic acid or other acne-fighting ingredients can help reduce active acne by unclogging pores and controlling excess oil production. This also reduces future breakouts and the formation of blackheads and whiteheads.
Diminished Acne Scars: Superficial to medium-depth peels can improve the appearance of shallow acne scars by promoting new skin growth, smoothing out uneven texture, and lightening pigmentation associated with scarring.
Reduced Pore Size: Regular peels can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores by keeping them clean and unclogged, which makes them appear smaller over time.
Firmer, More Elastic Skin:Deeper peels stimulate collagen and elastin production, which helps to firm the skin and improve its elasticity, contributing to a more youthful appearance.
Improved Product Absorption: Post-peel, the skin is more receptive to topical skincare products, allowing them to penetrate more effectively. This enhances the benefits of any serums, creams, or treatments you apply afterward.

Timeline for Results

Immediately After: Skin may appear red or flushed, and there may be some initial tightness or tingling.
First Few Days: Peeling or flaking often starts within 2-3 days, especially with medium peels. The extent of peeling depends on the depth of the treatment.
Within 1-2 Weeks: Results like improved texture, reduced pigmentation, and smoother skin become visible as the peeling subsides.
Long-Term: With repeated treatments, the cumulative effects of peels can lead to significant improvements in skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.

The final results depend on factors like the type of peel, your skin type, and adherence to aftercare instructions. It is crucial to follow all post-treatment recommendations and avoid sun exposure to maximize and maintain results.

What is the general cost?

The cost of a medical-grade peel can vary significantly based on several factors, such as the type and depth of the peel, the provider’s expertise, and the clinic’s location. Here’s a general overview of pricing:

Superficial Peels (Light Peels):
1. Cost: $100 – $250 per session.
2. Details: These peels use mild acids like glycolic or lactic acid. They are often done in a series, and the cost is lower compared to deeper peels.
Medium Peels:
1. Cost: $250 – $600 per session.
2. Details: Medium-depth peels, such as those using trichloroacetic acid (TCA), are more intense and often require some downtime. Costs are higher due to the stronger effects and the need for professional supervision.
Deep Peels:
1. Cost: $600 – $3000 or more per session.
2. Details: Deep peels, such as those containing phenol, are more costly due to the high level of expertise required, the dramatic results they provide, and the longer recovery time. These peels are often performed by dermatologists or plastic surgeons.

Factors Influencing Cost:

Provider’s Expertise: Dermatologists or medical spas with highly experienced staff may charge more.
Clinic Location: Costs tend to be higher in larger metropolitan areas compared to smaller towns or rural areas.
Type of Peel: More complex, specialized, or custom-blended peels are generally more expensive.
Number of Sessions: Superficial peels often require multiple treatments to achieve optimal results, which can increase the overall cost.

Some clinics offer package deals for multiple sessions, which can lower the overall cost per treatment. It’s important to consult with a licensed professional to determine the best type of peel for your needs and budget.

How often can I get a Peel? How many Peels do I need?

The frequency of medical-grade peels depends on the type and depth of the peel, as well as individual skin goals and concerns. Here’s a general guideline:

Superficial Peels (Light Peels):
1. Frequency: Every 2-4 weeks.
2. Number of Sessions: Usually 4-6 sessions are recommended for optimal results.
3. Details: Superficial peels, using mild acids like glycolic or lactic acid, are safe to do frequently. They gradually improve skin texture, tone, and radiance with minimal downtime. Maintenance treatments every few months can help sustain results.
Medium Peels:
1. Frequency: Every 3-6 months.
2. Number of Sessions: Typically 1-3 sessions may be needed for visible improvements.
3. Details: Medium-depth peels, such as TCA peels, require more recovery time (about 1-2 weeks) and can only be done a few times per year. They are effective for treating deeper pigmentation, fine lines, and acne scars.
Deep Peels:
1. Frequency: Once every few years.
2. Number of Sessions: Usually only 1 session is needed.
3. Details: Deep peels, such as phenol peels, penetrate the deepest layers of the skin and are used for significant skin concerns like deep wrinkles and severe sun damage. Due to the intensity, they are usually performed just once, and the results can last for several years. Repeat treatments are not typically required.

Factors Influencing Frequency and Number of Treatments:

Skin Type: Sensitive skin may require more time between peels to prevent irritation.
Skin Concerns: Conditions like acne or hyperpigmentation may benefit from a series of frequent superficial peels, while deeper wrinkles may require fewer but more intense treatments.
Results Desired: If you’re looking for gradual improvement, a series of light peels may be preferred. For more dramatic changes, a medium or deep peel may be suitable.

It’s important to follow a professional’s guidance for scheduling peels, as over-exfoliation can lead to skin irritation, sensitivity, or even damage. Proper aftercare, including avoiding sun exposure and using gentle skincare products, is also key for optimal results. Maintenance of peels every few months or annually can help maintain and extend the results once your skin has reached the desired condition.

By selecting the appropriate type of peel, many different skin concerns can be addressed, either individually or simultaneously, leading to a more youthful, even, and refined appearance. The specific results depend on the type of peel, the concentration of acids, and the number of treatments received.

At Derma Bright Clinic our range of peels include mild to deep and start at $145.

We carry:

AlumierMD Peels: Glow Peel, Renew 30 and Enzyme Restructuring peels
PromoItalia: PQ Face Peel, ZK Peel, and V Carbon Peels
Alex Peels: Light, Medium and Deep Peels

And if you are on our Venus membership, they are included in the offering!

It is best to contact Derma Bright Clinic for a free consultation to see if a Peel is the right thing for you. We are open 6 days a week from 10 – 8 pm.

Visit: https://dermabrightclinic.com/ to learn more.